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June 3, 2017

3D Printing Slicers

Having been down the somewhat unpaved road of 3D printer slicers over the past couple of years, I’m always on the look out for something that improves a 3D print without having to resort to sacrificing a spool of filament in an open fire pit on a full moon. At the stroke of midnight.

Let me preface this by stating I’m a delta printer guy. I’ve used cartesian’s but my go to printers are both Kossel styles. Built by me. So I know them well.

Slicing Software

There are those who seem to be able to make anything work, either right off because the software “works” like they do, or they stick with it long enough to learn all the nuances of it and master it.

I gave CURA a fair shake, kind of got it working, but while it felt pretty with it’s GUI, mining down to the settings I wanted to adjust with got annoying. I got the feeling it wasn’t designed for delta style printers in spite of the fact that many are using it on delta printers.

Venturing even further down the path, I bought Simplifry3D. Advertised as the be all and end all for slicing. Plug and play. Easy to use. Excellent documentation. Yeah, my experience dictates that would be four strikes against them. Make it five if you want to include the absolutely pathetic tech support.

Still, honestly, you have to try these things because what works fabulous for you may not work for others. Or vice versa.

After the roads I travelled down, it was nice to get back to Slic3r, even if there’s some pot holes in the road that need fixing. Or as someone said, “Better the devil you know than the one you don’t”. Thus I kept going back to Slic3r.


Slic3r hasn’t changed from the 1.2.9 version since June 2015. In software lifespans, two years is an eon. Mind you it is open source so you take what comes.

Slic3r is working on a 1.3.0 version and I suspect in time it will appear since they are pouring a lot of hours into it.

PRUSA Slic3r

Last year PRUSA forked Slic3r with the intention of making it work better with their own brand of printers. This got my attention since the work that PRUSA stated they’d be doing would be fixing up the various parts of Slic3r before adding in all their own bells and whistles to better suit their own printers.

With every release PRUSA has done, I’ve downloaded and run to see how it works with my Kossels. I’d be the first to admit this is not exactly what I would ever advise anyone to do. Me, I’m curious. Just a darn good thing I’m not a cat.

Some of the releases were, ah, how to put it, scary. The print head moving like a spasmodic hummingbird, or moving at the speed of the next ice age. Oh yeah, some issues for sure.

However, over time, each release got a little bit better. I’d check the forums to see what others would experiencing and see that would relate to anything I’d be doing and in most cases, nope. Delta printers are different.

Since the first week in April I’ve been using PRUSA’s 1.34.1 version exclusively. The quality that I am getting out it exceeds what I can get out of the 1.2.9 version of Slic3r. Admittedly some of the settings in the PRUSA version are different than the settings I used in Slic3r.

First off, the download link for the PRUSA 1.34.1 version.

Next the simple settings changes are in 3 areas, assuming you’re using the Expert settings in Slic3r like I am…



The USB serial connection is if you want to print from Slic3r via USB. I haven’t tried it, no idea if it works or not. I use Octoprint so everything is wireless here.


The only settings I needed to change here is in the “Quality” section. Specifically the “Avoid Crossing Perimeters”. Thin wall works sometimes, not others, much the same as vertical wall thickness. Normally I leave them unchecked and I’ll check the Plater–>Layers view to see how things look, maybe toggle them on or off and recheck.

A very nice edition is the SEAM position. If you want the seam hidden at the back of the print, just select REAR for the seam and it’s done. Works very nicely.

PS 1 Layers


For the infill, again, the only change I made was where it says, “Only retract when crossing perimeters”. I have it checked.

The rest are merely the stock settings I used all the time in the 1.2.9 version of Slic3r.

PS 2 Infill


One thing I would suggest if you want to travel this road, save your PRUSA settings with a unique name so you know they are specifically for PRUSA version not the 1.2.9 version of Slic3r.

I started to name mine like PRUSA_50403…shorthand for 50 infill speed, 40 perimeter speed, .3 layer height. Works well.

PRUSA has since released two more revisions but the current one is working so well, I haven’t felt the urge to try either of them out. Like they say, you can’t fix it if it’s not broken. Then again, maybe I’m just not trying hard enough…

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